If you have acne scars, there are many treatments touted to remove them—including microneedling and chemical peels. Both are available at VIDA because they each treat different skin concerns, but which one is better for acne scarring? It may come down to your skin tone. According to one recent study, microneedling bests chemical peels when it comes to treating clients with darker skin tones, which may come as a surprise to many. These two procedures are completely different, with microneedling working from the inside out while chemical peels work from the outside in.

A study from Rutgers University analyzed the effectiveness of these two popular treatments specifically in clients with more melanin. Full results are published in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. A professor at Robert Wood Johnson Medical School worked with 60 darker-skinned patients who all had acne scarring. Their Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype ranged from IV – VI. They were split into two groups and randomly assigned either 35 percent glycolic acid chemical peels or microneedling. Patients in both groups received treatment every two weeks for three months. These glycolic peels are in keeping with the strength of typical peels available at medical day spas while “traditional” microneedling tools were used.

Acne Woes

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) stresses how acne gets triggered with clogged pores. It is very common during puberty because of hormone changes, but can happen to anyone at any time in their life. Sometimes lighter forms of acne clear up easily, but other times acne scarring occurs. Those with nodular or cystic acne face a much higher risk of scarring. Cystic acne is the pus-filled kind while nodular acne is the one characterized by a hard “head” forming. The AAD estimates that scarring occurs in 30 percent of people with moderate or severe acne. Hyperpigmentation can also occur, and is more common in people with darker skin.

There are also different types of acne scarring including atrophic (icepick) scars, hypertrophic (raised and hard scars), and keloidal (reddish scars that stretch beyond the original acne borders). When retinol serums do not work to clear up scarring or hyperpigmentation, microneedling and/or peels are often recommended.

Two Treatments for Acne

Microneedling works by creating thousands of microchannels (also called micro-traumas) in the skin. This stimulates collagen production, the body’s natural healing process. Over time, routine microneedling treatments can help with a number of skin issues including acne scarring. Results are not immediate, but there is no downtime. Many people opt for monthly microneedling sessions to sustain results and ensure skin is youthful, plump, and clear.

Chemical peels can be comprised of many types of chemicals. They work by literally peeling the top surface of the skin away. Not only does this immediately remove very superficial issues (including hyperpigmentation in some cases) but it is also a form of collagen induction therapy. Obviously, how collagen is inducted is very different when comparing these two treatments.

What the Researchers Found

The participants ranged from 15 – 50 years old and all had “clinically diagnosed scars.” Those with active acne, HIV injection, and/or diabetes were excluded. After the 12-week study, researchers waited an additional two weeks to allow treatment results to continue improving. The Goodman and Baron Scarring Grading System was used to gauge results, and researchers found that an incredible 73 percent of microneedling participants improved 2+ points on the scale while just 33 percent of chemical peel participants achieved the same.

The researchers say, “Based on the results of this study, patients whose darker skin precludes the use of stronger chemical peels, which can permanently discolor darker skin, should treat acne scars with microneedling.” However, “For patients with lighter skin who can use stronger peels without risk of discoloration, chemical peels might still be the best option for some.” The glycolic peel used in the study is considered a superficial peel, and one of the few available for darker skin tones. Hypopigmentation is a major risk factor with peels and those with more melanin, though there are a few light peels suitable for all skin types.

If you have acne scarring or any type of skin issue, treatments are available. Sometimes you can also combine peels with microneedling, though these sessions must be spaced apart from one another. To find out more, contact VIDA today for your consultation by calling the office or filling out the online contact form.